We’ve all walked into a place catering to coffee lovers at least once in our lives and indulged in the aroma of freshly brewed coffee. Whether it’s the popular crowded cafe, a quaint little coffee shop, or a coffee connoisseur’s home, that enticing aroma can often make one wonder: “Where is this coffee from?”
While Turkish, Vietnamese, Brazilian, Ethiopian, and South Indian coffee are often talked about, Northeast Indian coffee is rarely in the spotlight.
However, there is a growing trend of sustainable coffee growers and roasters in India’s first organic state. Imagine a pristine place where coffee is farmed, roasted, and brewed in harmony with nature and by local farmers – Sikkim.
Sikkim Coffee, a coffee farm and roastery founded by Sikkim resident Sangpo Tenzin, made waves after it was chosen as one of the 16 coffee startups to exhibit its products at the recently concluded 5th World Coffee Conference in Bangalore. This year, towards the end of September, India had the opportunity to host this prestigious global event, which brought together coffee lovers and experts from around the world.
The main topic at the conference was ‘Sustainability through Circular Economy and Regenerative Agriculture.’ Among well-known names from the coffee industry such as Starbucks, Blue Tokai, Nescafé, Tata, Bru, and CCD, startup Sikkim Coffee from Northeast India shone at the event as an epitome of sustainability.
While the startup was part of the global event’s startup committee, it also received support from the Coffee Board of India in the form of grants. Speaking to EastMojo, Sangpo Tenzin, the founder of Sikkim Coffee, shares how Sikkim is leading the movement of the northeast region towards a sustainable coffee culture.
When asked about his coffee journey, Tenzin said that while running a successful café business, he and his wife thought, ‘What’s next?’ “Being closer to our roots, among local farmers, enjoying the simple lifestyle of a farmer, and giving back to the community – that’s what we wanted,” he added.
“We wanted to do something constructive and community-based. Since we were already doing well as café owners, we decided to continue with coffee but involve the local community,” said Tenzin.
Sangpo Tenzin, who holds an MBA degree and has studied at Delhi University’s Sri Ram College of Commerce, is also the co-founder of The Local Café. His wife, with degrees in law, decided to join him in making their shared vision a success.
While recognising and supporting the needs of the surrounding community through research supported by local growers and experts, Tenzin decided to create Sikkim Coffee.
He recalled, “The government and local organic coffee growers started coffee projects years ago but couldn’t make them work. Through research with Sikkim University students and guidance from subject experts, we discovered that coffee growers in Sikkim and nearby areas struggled to succeed. This led to the creation of our own sustainable coffee project.”
In the past, for instance, Tek Man Rai, an organic coffee grower was in the news for sustainable forms of coffee production in the high-altitude region of Sikkim.
Coffee grown at high altitudes has a richer flavour because cooler temperatures slow down growth, letting the beans mature longer. This creates a fuller taste, preserving regional flavours. High-altitude beans are denser and last longer in storage. Scientific research shows that they have a superior body and aroma compared to low-altitude beans. Coffee Arabica thrives at high altitudes but costs more to cultivate due to its longer maturation and selective hand-picking, resulting in lower yields.
The high altitude climates of northeastern India have been found to be just right for coffee growing, said Tenzin.
For example, Temi Tea Estate, primarily recognised for its tea production, has reportedly ventured into coffee cultivation also. Located in the scenic Ravangla region of Sikkim, Temi Tea Estate has a rich history as one of the oldest tea gardens in the state. This estate has also moved towards eco-friendly farming methods, exemplifying a commitment to sustainable and organic practices in its coffee production alongside its tea output.
Coffee farms in Sikkim not only support sustainable cultivation techniques but also advocate for fair trade.
Back in 2016, the Sikkim Organic Mission, a government-led initiative, has promoted organic farming throughout the region, encompassing coffee cultivation as well. Under this programme, many coffee growers in Sikkim have transitioned to organic and sustainable farming practices, contributing to a more environmentally conscious and socially responsible coffee industry.
Sikkim’s coffee industry has embraced sustainability and fair trade principles through the formation of coffee cooperatives. Local farmers collaborate to collectively market and sell their coffee beans, prioritising both environmental conservation and fair compensation for farmers.
Coffee has been grown in the northeastern region for quite some time, but nobody made it work. Tenzin explained, “In the coffee industry, farmers are usually not well-paid, and there is a lack of access to the market. There is a need to change that.”
Tenzin shares his vision: “People in the Himalayan states, in Nagaland, Meghalaya, Assam, and even in Sikkim, have been growing coffee in the past, but they have not been able to take it to an international or national level. I want to bring the northeast, the simple essence, and pristine quality of the Himalayan region to the global stage.”
When asked about the steps being taken to ensure that this community-based endeavour is sustainable, Tenzin said that growing coffee is a science. “First, we try to get the technicalities right. We primarily produce 80-70% Arabica coffee beans and 20-30% Robusta. For guidance on the best varieties, I hired an Australian expert with over 40 years of experience.”
He continued, “I’ve travelled overseas to acquire my FCA certifications for roasting and other technical aspects.” To grow coffee in the high altitudes of the Himalayan state, Tenzin provides local farmers with “free saplings, free distribution, free technical know-how, and without a contract.”
At the international level, consumers who have long been loyal to beans from well-known countries are reportedly seeking lesser-known producers who can offer something special from a new region. “I think the Himalayan region can be the new region they are looking for,” he said. It is not surprising that during the exhibition at the recent global conference, Sikkim Coffee sold out every sample they had on the table.
The Indian Himalayan Region spans 13 Indian States/Union Territories, namely Jammu and Kashmir, Ladakh, Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh, Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, Sikkim, Tripura, Assam, and West Bengal, stretching across 2,500 km.
When asked about what it means to be ‘Himalayan’ and to talk about the essence of Himalayan culture, which his brand tries to promote, Tenzin shared, “We try to share the Himalayan experience with people who buy our products. The quality of coffee grown in our home states, the marketing with symbols of our rich Sikkim culture, the way we serve them, our ethics and aesthetics – they should be able to sense purity in it.” One of the ways Tenzin promotes his culture is by incorporating the motif of the snow lion into the marketing of his coffee.
Singhi Chham, also known as Kanchendzonga Dance, is a traditional dance from Sikkim in which the performers don a snow lion costume to depict this majestic creature.
Tenzin further said, “As a Buddhist, I believe in kindness, in reincarnation, in ethics. Likewise, other northeastern people have their own values. Whether from Sikkim or Nagaland, Assam, Meghalaya, or any other state in the region, northeastern locals are known to be simple people with a rich cultural heritage, a unique sense of hospitality, and nature-friendly values.”
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As part of his plan to bring northeastern coffee-growing states together and take them along with Sikkim to the global platform under one brand, the Sikkim Coffee founder has created ‘Himaliano.’ In the near future, Tenzin aims to create networking centres and platforms to coordinate and collaborate with other northeastern coffee-growing states to turn his holistic vision into reality.
With a valuable insight into how sustainable coffee culture can be one of the ways to unite the northeast, Tenzin concludes, “I know coffee might not change anyone’s life. But through coffee, we can share our cultural identity; and moments of compassionate, peaceful connection.”
Also Read | Sikkim: How brave workers saved a govt-run rabbit farm from complete destruction
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