On the fateful night of October 4, 2023, the tranquil Teesta Valley in Sikkim was suddenly transformed into a landscape of devastation. The unexpected breaching of dams released a torrent of water that obliterated homes, lives, and livelihoods. This calamity highlighted a stark reality: the combined impact of industrialization and climate change is destabilizing the delicate balance of this Himalayan region.
As the floodwaters receded, a broader picture emerged—a relentless cycle of human-induced changes and climate-driven disasters. Yet, the responsibility voiced to safeguard Sikkim’s fragile ecosystem largely falls on deaf ears. Why aren’t more voices joining this vital cause?
The Gathering Storm: Climate Change in Sikkim
Global warming is no longer a distant concern; its consequences are appearing with alarming regularity. In the Himalayan region, rising temperatures have accelerated glacial melting, swelling glacial lakes, and heightening the risk of catastrophic outbursts. A striking example of climate change’s impact here is the 2023 glacial outburst flood.
Sikkim’s monsoon patterns have also become increasingly erratic. Continuous monsoon rainfall has triggered landslides, displacing entire villages and destroying roads that connect remote areas to safety.
Climate change is significantly altering the biodiversity of the Sikkim Himalayas, particularly impacting bird and butterfly species. For instance, the Satyr Tragopan (Tragopan satyra), a high-altitude pheasant, faces growing threats as its habitat changes due to rising temperatures. This species relies on specific forest conditions that climate change is disrupting. Similarly, Common Blue Apollo butterflies (Parnassius hardwickii), typically found in alpine and sub-alpine regions, are migrating to higher altitudes in search of suitable habitats as temperatures rise. These changes illustrate a broader trend of species shifting their ranges in response to warming climates, demonstrating the direct impact of climate change on local wildlife and ecosystems.
Development on Fragile Terrain
Industrialization adds another layer of complexity to Sikkim’s challenges. Being young fold mountains, the Himalayas are inherently unstable and prone to erosion. However, these delicate slopes are burdened with heavy infrastructure projects, from hydropower dams to railways.
Dams, often praised as clean energy, have devastating side effects. They alter river flows, trap sediment that would naturally replenish downstream ecosystems, and increase the risk of reservoir-induced seismicity in an already earthquake-prone area. The flood in 2023 highlighted the dangers of such infrastructure in fragile regions. When dams collapsed under the weight of floodwaters, they exacerbated the destruction instead of alleviating it.
The Teesta River, once a vibrant lifeline for the region, is now fragmented by dams that disrupt its flow and biodiversity. Fish populations, vital for local diets and economies, are struggling to spawn in the altered waterways: The Mahseer fish population in India is declining due to unregulated fishing, habitat loss, and dam construction. In Sikkim, numerous hydroelectric projects disrupt fish habitats by diverting rivers and altering their natural flow. Dams create barriers that hinder the Mahseer’s upstream migration during the breeding season, endangering this state fish. Agriculture has also suffered as water resources have become unpredictable.
Sikkim has several hydropower projects, including five existing projects, 15 upcoming projects, and 27 more in the pipeline. In October 2023, at least three projects—the Teesta Phase III, Teesta V, and Teesta VI—were adversely affected.
The Indigenous Resistance
For the Lepcha community, the Teesta and its tributaries are not just rivers; they are revered entities intricately tied to their cultural and spiritual identity.
Each clan is believed to have originated from specific lakes, rivers, or mountains associated with them. Additionally, folklore celebrates these rivers as living beings, with stories like the race between Rongnyu and Rongeet highlighting their vibrancy. Newlyweds exchange vows at their confluence, while Mun Bongtheings (spiritual practitioners) accompany souls along these rivers to their final resting places. Damming these rivers disrupts not only ecosystems but also the spiritual essence of the Lepcha way of life.
This existential threat has compelled the community to resist projects like the 320 MW Panang Upper Dzongu Power Project and the proposed 520 MW Stage 4 dam.
Leaders like Mayalmit have dedicated their lives to this cause. A resident of Dzongu, she has been at the forefront of the movement for over 17 years. Her activism, supported by the community—especially the women of Hee-Gyathang—underscores the vital role of indigenous voices in preserving Sikkim’s heritage.
“One of the most notable examples is the Sikkim Urja (Teesta III) project, which boasts a capacity of 1200 megawatts and is among the largest hydropower initiatives in Sikkim. It took 12 years to construct, yet they operated for only 6 years, costing over Rs 14,000 crore. Tragically, on October 4, 2023, it was destroyed in just 10 minutes due to glacial lake outbursts, yet our central government has not classified it as a national disaster.
Furthermore, Stage V (510 megawatts) and Stage VI also suffered significant damage from floods in the Teesta River, resulting in countless lives lost and property destroyed, with many still unaccounted for. We currently lack precise data on these losses.
The recent severe landslides and flash floods in Dzongu and other areas of North Sikkim are a stark warning from our local deities, illustrating the undeniable impacts of climate change in Sikkim, akin to regions globally. These disasters are not merely natural events; they are largely man-made, a reality we must confront,” Mayal notes.
Moreover, the impacts of these climate-related disruptions are most acutely felt by indigenous communities that rely heavily on natural resources for their livelihoods. The disruption of resources, due to both climate change and industrial projects, jeopardizes food security and economic stability for these communities, forcing them to confront a dual threat: environmental degradation and the erosion of their traditional way of life.
The photo above is from the aftermath of the glacial lake outburst flood on October 4, 2023; the local community constructed traditional bamboo-cane bridges to maintain connectivity while help was still on the way.
The situation highlights the importance of respecting and preserving indigenous knowledge, which proves invaluable during crises. The community’s resourcefulness and adaptability are showcased through indigenous knowledge repositories that reflect their ingenuity when modern solutions fall short.
“In times of calamity, it is the indigenous and local communities that endure the most suffering. Look at our people; they have lost their homes, lands, and cherished possessions, all earned through hard work rather than corruption. It is truly inspiring to see our Indigenous community come together to restore connectivity and support one another during this crisis, but where was your development then, where is it now?” questions Mayalmit.
This is not just a “Lepcha Issue”
The pro-nature/ anti-dam movement is often framed as an “indigenous issue,” primarily affecting the Lepcha community. While it is true that this community has borne the brunt of this ecological and cultural upheaval, viewing it solely as their concern misses the broader picture. This is not just a Lepcha issue—it is a collective crisis affecting everyone who relies on the land, rivers, and climate stability of this region.
The rivers flowing through Sikkim, Kalimpong, and Darjeeling are lifelines, providing water for drinking, irrigation, and industry to millions downstream, from the Himalayan foothills to the plains of Bengal and beyond, into Bangladesh. When the natural flow of these rivers is disrupted by uncontrolled infrastructure projects or exacerbated by climate change, the impacts extend far beyond Sikkim’s borders.
The Lepchas’ profound connection to the land positions them as some of the most vocal and visible defenders of the Teesta’s delicate ecosystem. However, their warnings and struggles should not be perceived as the concerns of a niche group. The same forces driving their displacement and cultural erosion—unsustainable development, resource exploitation, and the relentless advance of climate change—threaten us all.
This interconnectedness emphasizes why the crisis in the Teesta Valley is a shared transboundary issue. When landslides block roads, they isolate not only remote villages but also disrupt supply chains to urban areas. When hydropower projects alter river ecosystems, they impact biodiversity that supports agriculture, fisheries, and even tourism—a significant economic driver for the entire region. Have we not witnessed this unfold right before our eyes?
To view the Teesta’s plight merely as a Lepcha issue is to overlook its broader implications. It calls for a reexamination of how we value and manage our natural resources, not just for a single community but for the collective well-being of all who depend on the lifelines of this land.
Sustainable Future?
Sikkim stands at a critical juncture. The choices made today will dictate whether its rivers, forests, and mountains remain vibrant for future generations. It is not too late to change course. They can halt new hydropower projects in vulnerable areas, invest in sustainable, community-led solutions for climate adaptation, and amplify indigenous voices and integrate their wisdom into policy-making.
The disaster in the Teesta Valley served as an urgent wake-up call. With just six months remaining until the onset of the monsoon season in 2025, the pressing question is: will we heed this call?
This story has been published as part of the AIPP-EastMojo Fellowship 2024
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